nonaKnits

Sidewinders: The Grand Finale

Today I bring you The Grand Finale -- the 6th and final installment -- of Sidewinders: A PerpenSOCKular Pattern.  If you need to get caught up, you can find the previous installments here: The Prologue, Act I, Act II, Act III and Act IV.

The Grand Finale requires you to close you eyes, take a cleansing breath, and conjure up all the bad feelings and emotions you have about grafting.  Imagine how hard grafting is and how confusing the front needle, back needle, knit-wise, purl-wise instructions are.  Got it?  Good.  Now open the door and sweep all those nasty images away.  Because today you're going to graft, and today you're going to realize it's not so hard, and today you're going to say to yourself, "I like grafting".   

Although grafting is not the least bit hard, it does take time, and it does take good light.  You'll probably need about an hour for the Grand Finale, so put the tea pot on, get the good chocolate out, and shoo the kids away.

It's now or never -- cleansing breath, positive thoughts, tea, and click... 

Sidewinders: The Grand Finale

The Long Vertical Graft

The stitches on the needle need to be grafted to the stitches left by the provisional cast on.  This long vertical graft will join your flat, crazy looking sock into a tube.

Prepare to Graft

• Remove the provisional cast on and place the resulting live loops on another circular needle of comparable size.  Even if this other needle is a little larger or a little smaller than the needle you knit with your grafting will turn out fine.

• Cut your working yarn leaving a 75 inch tail -- give or take -- and thread the tail on a blunt tapestry needle.

• Fold your sock in half, wrong sides together, and bring the needles parallel to one another.  Hold the needles in your left hand -- you'll be working right to left -- with the tail connected to the first stitch on the front needle.

Poised to begin grafting!

Just Once, To Get Started

	Front needle -- Go through the first stitch on the front needle -- from the center, out -- and leave the stitch on the needle.
	Back needle -- Go through the first stitch on the back needle -- from the center, out -- and leave the stitch on the needle.

Repeat Over, and Over, and Over, and Over

	Front Needle -- Go in toward the center & drop the stitch off the needle.
	Front Needle -- Come out from the center & leave the stitch on the needle.
	Back Needle -- Go in toward the center & drop the stitch off the needle.
	Back Needle -- Come out from the center & leave the stitch on the needle.

Keep repeating these 4 steps over and over and over until you have only 1 stitch left on each needle:

1. Front needle -- in toward the center -- drop stitch off
2. Front needle -- out from the center -- leave stitch on
3. Back needle -- in toward the center -- drop stitch off
4. Back needle -- out from the center -- leave stitch on

Always keep the yarn under the knitting needles and try to keep an even tension -- pulling tight enough to close but not so tight that it puckers.  Don't worry, you'll find your rhythm.  In a nutshell, you're alternating needles and repeating, "In, Drop Off, Out, Leave On"

Just Once, To End

Once you're down to a single stitch on each needle, you simply need to "go in toward the middle & drop off the stitch" on each of the needles.  Weave your ends in and you are done!

The Short Horizontal Graft

Hopefully by now you and grafting are fast friends.  You have one more short horizontal graft to join the toe to the bottom of the foot.  If you were careful to work the slip stitch edge and place your pins as instructed, this horizontal graft should be a breeze!

Prepare to Graft

• Turn the sock inside out and locate the edge stitches that run along the sides of the foot and toe.  These edge stitches look like interlocking "V"s.  You should have (18, 20, 23), [(18, 21, 23), (19, 22, 24), (20, 22, 25)] edge stitches on the foot between -- but not including -- the pins and the same number on the toe between -- and including -- the pins.

• Start with the foot's edge stitches -- the stitches between, but not including, the pins. 

  • With one of your circular needles and the wrong side facing out, pick up the outer leg of the "V" -- the leg closest to you and farthest away from the opening -- of each edge stitch and place it on your needle.

  • When you pick up this leg and place it on your needle, the right half of the leg should be in the front of the needle and the left half of the leg should be in the back -- it should remind you of a typical stitch mount.

  

  • I found it easier to grab the leg first with my tapestry needle and then to transfer it onto the knitting needle.

• Next, the toe's edge stitches -- the stitches between, and including, the pins. 

  • With your other circular needle and the wrong side facing out, pick up the outer leg of each edge stitch and place it on your needle.  Just like you did with the foot's edge stitches.

  • Remove the pins.

• When finished you should have (18, 20, 23), [(18, 21, 23), (19, 22, 24), (20, 22, 25)] stitches on each of 2 circular needles.

Graft

Cut a piece of yarn about 30 inches long and thread it in your tapestry needle.  With wrongs sides facing out, graft these stitches together.  Weave in ends.

The End

And they all lived happily ever after -- Curtain Down -- The End.

Sidewinders: Act IV

Today I bring you Act IV -- the 5th installment -- of Sidewinders: A PerpenSOCKular Pattern.  If you need to get caught up, you can find the previous installments here: The Prologue, Act I, Act II, and Act III.

Let's recap the Sidewinders' grand plan and see if it makes more sense now that you're almost finished.  The sock is knit sideways starting at the center back of the leg a.k.a. center bottom of the foot and is knit back and forth in rows.   The flat sock is then joined into a tube using a little magic, which will be revealed in the Grand Finale.

The toe and heel are shaped identically using paired increases to widen and paired decreases to narrow.  The sock divides nicely into 4 equal sections -- each concentrating on one particular type of shaping.   The 1st and 4th sections shape the heel while the 2nd and 3rd shape the toe.

Several techniques are used to make the sock's leg fit nicely.   First, the Double Garter cuff behaves a bit like ribbing, holding up the top of the sock.  Second, the back 1/4th of the leg is worked in Garter Stitch to fit snuggly across the back ankle.  And finally, short rows are used to widen the top of the leg to accommodate the widening of the calf.

I'm guessing many of you will not be surprised by Act IV.  On the contrary, you should feel like you've done it before.

06/09/2007 -- Post updated to correct error in instructions.

Sidewinders Act IV: Heel Out

Instructions

Finishing the Heel

Next Row -- Row (54, 60, 69), [(54, 63, 69), (57, 66, 72), (60, 66, 75)] -- Begin the second half of the heel shaping by working paired increases every row as follows:

RS Rows:  Work to 1 stitch before the center heel marker, m1R, k2, m1L, work to the end.

WS Rows: Work to 1 stitch before the center heel marker, m1L, p2, m1R, and work to the end.

nonaSays  If you forget how to work any of these increases, please refer back to Act II for details.

Repeat the increase row (10, 11, 13), [(10, 12, 13), (11, 13, 14), (11, 13, 14)] more times.  And at the same time...

After finishing Row (61, 67, 77), [(61, 71, 77),  (65, 75, 81), (69, 75, 85)] -- Insert a few short rows to add a little calf shaping.  These short rows should not be included in your row count.  It is also time to switch the leg stitch pattern from Stockinette Stitch back to Garter Stitch.  Here we go:

Short Row 1 -- RS -- Work 12 stitches, Turn mid-row
Short Row 2 -- WS -- YO, work 12 stitches to get back to the end of the needle.
Short Row 3 -- RS -- Work 12 stitches, k2tog, k3, Turn mid-row
Short Row 4 -- WS --- YO, work 16 stitches to get back to the end of the needle.
Short Row 5 -- RS -- Work 16 stitches, k2tog, k3, Turn mid-row
Short Row 6 -- WS -- YO, work 20 stitches to get back to the end of the needle.

nonaSays  Double check yourself -- all sizes should be starting their short-rows on a RS row.  Also, the 1st stitch of each k2tog should be the YO from the previous short row.

Next Row -- Row (62, 68, 78), [(62, 72, 78),  (66, 76, 82), (70, 76, 86)] -- Continue to work the leg stitches in Garter Stitch.   Also, when you encounter the YO from the last short row, knit it together with the next stitch.  And although I'm sure you don't need to be reminded, the mother in me must say, "don't forget to continue to work the heel increases".

Last Increase Row -- Row (64, 71, 82), [(64, 75, 82), (68, 79, 86), (71, 79, 89)]   -- This should be your last row of heel increases.  When finished with this row you should have:

8 stitches from the beginning of the row to the cuff marker,
(53, 54, 56), [(55, 57, 58), (56, 58, 59), (59, 61, 62)] stitches between the cuff marker and the center heel marker,
(51, 51, 48), [(53, 52, 50), (55, 52, 52), (58, 56, 55)] stitches between the center heel marker and the end of the row.

For a total of (112, 113, 112), [(116, 117, 116), (119, 118, 119), (125, 125, 125)] stitches.

Work without further heel shaping for (7, 8, 9), [(7, 8, 9), (7, 8, 9), (8, 8, 10)] rows ending with Row (71, 79, 91), [(71, 83, 91), (75, 87, 95), (79, 87, 99)].

Intermission

Are you feeling sassy?  Good, keep that sassy feeling going for tomorrow's Grand Finale.  And you know what -- seriously -- I'm proud of you!

Sidewinders: Act III

Today I bring you Act III -- the 4th installment -- of Sidewinders: A PerpenSOCKular Pattern.  If you need to get caught up, you can find the previous installments here: The Prologue, Act I, and Act II.

My friends, you're halfway through!  You've flown through paired decreases, conquered paired increases, mastered short rows, and negotiated stitch markers -- please, take a well deserved MCS.  In the next 2 Acts, we'll be doing more of the same. 

In this Act you'll shape the second half of the toe using paired decrease like you did with the heel.  Did you get that?  Just like the heel!  As I said before and will say again -- ad nauseum, I know -- what I love about the Sidewinders is that the heel and toe are shaped in the exact same way.  Symmetry is a beautiful thing.

Things start off easy today.  Shall we get going?

Sidewinders Act III: Toe In

Instructions

Finishing the Toe

Work straight for (7, 8, 9), [(7, 8, 9), (7, 8, 9), (8, 8, 10)]  rows.

nonaSays  Here's my trick for keeping track of which row I'm on.  I count the ridges and valleys of the Double Garter cuff.  Each ridge -- or valley -- is 2 rows.  Once counted, I add 1 for the first setup row and subtract 6 for the 6 short rows worked in Act I.  What technique are you using?

Next Row -- Row (43, 48, 55), [(43, 50, 55), (45, 52, 57), (48, 52, 60)] -- Complete the toe shaping by working paired decreases every row as follows:

RS Rows:  Work to 2 stitches before the center toe marker, k2tog, skp, work to end of row

WS Rows:  Work to 2 stitches before center toe marker, ssp, p2tog, work to end of row

nonaSays  If you forget how to work any of these decreases, please refer back to Act I for details.

Repeat the decrease row (10, 11, 13), [(10, 12, 13), (11, 13, 14), (11, 13, 14)] more times.  You'll know you're done when you're back to 2 stitches between the center toe marker and the end of the toe.

Last Decrease Row -- Row (53, 59, 68), [(53, 62, 68), (56, 65, 71), (59, 65, 74)] -- When working this last decrease row reposition your stitch markers as follows:

Keep the cuff marker and center heel marker.
Remove the center toe marker.

When finished with this row, you should be back to:

8 cuff stitches,
(41, 41, 41), [(43, 43, 43), (43, 43, 43), (46, 46, 46)]  leg stitches,
2 heel stitches -- 1 on either side of the center heel marker -- and
(39, 38, 33), [(41, 38, 35), (42, 37, 36), (45, 41, 39)] foot stitches

For a total of (90, 89, 84), [(94, 91, 88), (95, 90, 89), (101, 97, 95)]  stitches.

Go back and mark the last toe edge stitch by slipping a safety pin around the edge stitch on the needle.   Again, you'll be glad you did when we get to the Grand Finale.

Intermission

Can you see the toe forminig, kind of like a little pocket?  Are you tempted to slip your toes inside?  Go ahead, no one’s looking.

Tomorrow in Act IV, you'll finish shaping the heel using paired increases.  You're getting so close!

Sidewinders: Act II

Are you ready for Act II -- the 3rd installment -- of Sidewinders: A PerpenSOCKular Pattern?  If you need to get caught up, you can find the previous installments here: The Prologue and Act I.

In Act I you finished the first 1/4 of your sock, turning the heel using paired decreases. In this act, you’ll concentrate on the toe shaping, working paired increases every row to increase the toe to its final length.  Half of the increased stitches create the top of the toe and the other half create the bottom – think of the center two toe stitches as the fold line. 

Finding paired increases that didn't distort the fabric when worked every row was tricky business.  I finally settled on the raised bar increase, but please fell free to substitute another if you prefer – I trust you.

That's enough chit-chat, let's get started on the toe...

Sidewinders Act II: Toe Out

Abbreviations

Raised Bar Increases

m1R -- Make-one right slanting.   Here’s how:

• Find the horiztonal connecting yarn between the needles.
•   Using the left needle pick up the connecting yarn from back-to-front and leave this "raised bar" on the left needle.
• If this is a right side row -- Knit the raised bar. 
• If this is a wrong side row -- Purl the raised bar.

nonaSays  If you go to knit or purl the raised bar and you feel like you are putting your needle through a big open hole then you probably picked up the connecting yarn from the wrong direction.

m1L -- Make-one left slanting.   Here’s how:

• Find the horiztonal connecting yarn between the needles.
•   Using the left needle pick up the connecting yarn from front-to-back and leave this "raised bar" on the left needle.
• If this is a right side row -- Knit the raised bar through the back loop. 
• If this is a wrong side row -- Purl the raised bar through the back loop.

nonaSays  Same drill -- if you go to knit or purl the raised bar through the back loop and you feel like you are putting your needle through a big open hole then you probably picked up the connecting yarn from the wrong direction.

Instructions

I’m going to stop saying, "Continuing in established stitch patterns", because I have faith that you will continue to do so.

Shaping the Toe

Next Row -- Row (18,20,23), [(18,21,23), (19,22,24), (20,22,25)] -- Begin the toe shaping by working paired increases every row as follows:

RS Rows:  Work to 1 stitch before the center toe marker, m1R, k2, m1L, work to the end.

WS Rows: Work to 1 stitch before the center toe marker, m1L, p2, m1R, work to the end.

nonaSays  For those of you starting on a wrong side row, you will be working your first m1L immediately after the foot’s edge stitch.

After completing your first WS row, go back and mark the first toe edge stitch by sliding a safety pin around edge stitch still on the needle.   You’ll be glad you did when we get to the Grand Finale. 

Repeat the increase row (10, 11,13), [(10, 12, 13), (11, 13, 14), (11, 13, 14)] more times.  You'll know you're done when you have (13, 14, 16), [(13, 15, 16), (14, 16, 17), (14, 16, 17)] stitches between the center toe marker and the end of the toe.

nonaSays  To help prevent the fabric from distorting be sure to knit (or purl) the 2 center toe stitches – the stitches between the make-ones -- relatively loosely.    You want enough slack in the connecting yarn for raising the bar on the next row.

Row (28, 31, 36), [(28, 33, 36), (30, 35, 38), (31, 35, 39)]  -- This should be your last row of toe increases.    When finished with this row, you should have:

8 cuff stitches,
(42, 42, 42), [(44, 44, 44), (44, 44, 44), (47, 47, 47)]  stitches between the cuff marker and the center heel marker,
(49, 49, 46), [(51, 50, 48), (53, 50, 50), (56, 54, 53)]  stitches between the center heel marker and the center toe marker,
(13, 14, 16), [(13, 15, 16), (14, 16, 17), (14, 16, 17)] stitches from the center toe marker to the end of the row.

For a total of (112, 113, 112), [(116, 117, 116), (119, 118, 119), (125, 125, 125)] stitches.

Work straight without further toe shaping for (7, 8, 9), [(7, 8, 9), (7, 8, 9), (8, 8, 10)]  rows ending with Row (35, 39, 45), [(35, 41, 45), (37, 43, 47), (39, 43, 49)].

Intermission

Congratulations!  You're half way done with your sock having worked 1/2 of the heel shaping in Act I and 1/2 of the toe shaping in Act II.

Tomorrow in Act III, we'll work the 2nd half of the toe using paired decreases.  Paired decreases?  That should sound familiar -- think Act I, heel.

Sidewinders: Act I

Sidewinders are knit sideways -- back and forth -- from the top of the cuff to the end of the foot.    Once completed, the flat sock is joined into a tube using a little Grand Finale magic.

In Act I you'll cast on and concentrate on the first half of the heel.  Paired decreases are used every row to shape the heel from the bottom of the sole to the ankle bone.  These decreases remind me of a mitered square and have the same effect -- bending a straight line of stitches 90 degrees, perfect for turning a heel.  The cuff is worked in Double Garter stitch -- which simulates ribbing – while the leg is initially worked in Garter Stitch to give the back ankle a snug fit. 

Previous installments of this serial pattern include: The Prologue.

Did you get gauge?  Great!  Let's get started.

Sidewinders Act I: Heel In

Stitch Patterns

Double Garter

Row 1 (RS): Purl
Row 2 (WS): Knit
Row 3 (RS): Knit
Row 4 (WS): Purl

Slip Stitch Edge

Row 1 (RS): Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with yarn in front
Row 2 (WS): Knit 1 stitch through the back loop

Abbreviations

RS -- Right Side Row.  In this pattern, all even rows are right side rows.
WS -- Wrong Side Row.  In this pattern, all odd rows are wrong side rows.
YO -- Yarn Over.

Right Slanting Decreases

k2tog -- Knit two stitches together
p2tog -- Purl two stitches together

Left Slanting Decreases

skp -- Slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 1 stitch, pass the slipped stitch up and over the knit stitch and off the needle.
ssp -- Slip 1 stitch knit-wise, slip another stitch knit-wise, return the 2 slipped stitches to left needle, and purl them together through the back loop.

Instructions

Getting Started

Using the provisional cast on of your choice, cast on

(112, 113, 112), [(116, 117, 116),  (119, 118, 119), (125, 125, 125)] stitches.

nonaSays  Don't know any provisional cast ons?  Cast on with waste yarn.  Switch to your real yarn with Row 1.  The waste yarn will be removed later to reveal live stitches.  For other variations, try google.

Row 1 (WS):  Place stitch markers to divide the sections of the sock as follows:

Purl (39, 38, 33), [(41, 38, 35), (42, 37, 36), (45, 41, 39)]  foot stitches,
Place foot marker,
Purl (12, 13, 15), [(12, 14, 15), (13, 15, 16), (13, 15, 16)] heel stitches,
Place center heel marker,
Purl (12, 13, 15), [(12, 14, 15), (13, 15, 16), (13, 15, 16)]  heel stitches,
Place leg marker,
Knit (41, 41, 41), [(43, 43, 43), (43, 43, 43), (46, 46, 46)]  leg stitches,
Place cuff marker,
Purl  8 cuff stitches.

Row 2 (RS):  Establish the stitch patterns used for each sock section as follows:

Work the 8 cuff stitches in Double Garter, starting with Row 1 of the stitch pattern.
Work the leg stitches in Garter Stitch
Work the heel stitches in Stockinette Stitch
Work up to the last foot stitches in Stockinette Stitch
Work the edge stitch in the Slip Stitch Edge stitch pattern, starting with Row 1

nonaSays  Don't forget to keep working the foot's Slip Stitch Edge.  It seems trivial now, but is very significant in the Grand Finale.

Continue in the establish stitch patterns for (4, 5, 6), [(4, 5, 6), (4, 5, 6), (5, 5, 7)] more rows.

nonaSays  Are you concerned that your sock is lacking a toe?  Don’t worry, the toe will magically appear in Act II.

Shaping the Heel

Next Row -- Row (7, 8, 9), [(7, 8, 9), (7, 8, 9), (8, 8, 10)] --   Continuing in the established stitch patterns, begin the heel shaping by working paired decreases every row as follows:

RS Rows:  Work to 2 stitches before the center heel marker, k2tog, skp, work to end of row
WS Rows:  Work to 2 stitches before center heel marker, ssp, p2tog, work to end of row

nonaSays  Some sizes start the heel shaping on a RS (even) row, while others start it on a WS (odd) row.  No Worries!

Repeat the decrease row (10, 11, 13), [(10, 12, 13), (11, 13, 14), (11, 13, 14)] more times -- you'll eventually get down to 2 heel stitches --  and at the same time...

Shaping the Calf

After finishing Row (9, 11, 13), [(9, 11, 13),  (9, 11, 13), (9, 11, 13)] -- Insert a few short rows to add a little calf shaping.  These short rows should not be included in your row count.  Continuing in the established stitch patterns shape the calf using short-rows as follows:

RS - Work 20 stitches, Turn mid-row.
WS - YO, work 20 stitches to get back to the end of the needle.
RS - Work 16 stitches, Turn mid-row.
WS - YO, work 16 stitches to get back to the end of the needle.
RS - Work 12 stitches, Turn mid-row.
WS - YO, work 12 stitches to get back to the end of the needle.

nonaSays  When working short-rows, you "turn mid-row" after working only part of that row -- trying your best to ignore the un-worked stitches.  The YO is used later to close the gap formed by your mid-row turning escapade.  On WS rows, you always work back to the end of the needle.

Next Row -- Row (10, 12, 14), [(10, 12, 14),  (10, 12, 14), (10, 12, 14)] -- Switch the leg stitch pattern from Garter Stitch to Stockinette Stitch.  Also, when you encounter the 3 YOs, knit each together with the next stitch to close the gap formed by turning the short row.  Continue the heel decreases and don't forget to work the foot’s Slip Stitch Edge.

Finishing Up

Last Row -- Row (17, 19, 22), [(17, 20, 22), (18, 21, 23), (19, 21, 24)]   -- should be your last row of heel decreases.  When working this row reposition your stitch markers as follows:

Keep the center heel and cuff markers,
Remove leg and foot markers, and
Add a center toe marker 2 stitches in from end of the foot (the foot's slip stitch edge stitch counts as one of these 2 stitches).

When finished with this row, you should have:

8 cuff stitches,
(41, 41, 41), [(43, 43, 43), (43, 43, 43), (46, 46, 46)]  leg stitches,
2 heel stitches, and
(39, 38, 33), [(41, 38, 35), (42, 37, 36), (45, 41, 39)] foot stitches

For a total of (90, 89, 84), [(94, 91, 88), (95, 90, 89), (101, 97, 95)]  stitches.

Intermission

Please take a moment to admire your heel shaping.  The paired decreases created a right angled miter that connects the leg with the foot at a 90 degree angle.  Too much math talk, I know, but it’s neat!

 

Tomorrow in Act II, the action will shift from the heel to the toe.

Sidewinders: The Prologue

On Mother's Day -- while the nona-boys made me laugh and cooked me dinner -- I knit my first sideways sock.  I was simultaneously thrilled and distraught by the resulting sock.  What a fabulous idea, but a lousy fit.  This juxtaposition of emotions sent me whirling on a quest, a quest for a well-fit sideways sock.  After much noodling, experimenting, and swatching I fixed upon a design that works for me.  Perhaps you'll enjoy it as well.

If nonaKnits Sidewinders, than you can too!

Starting today I'll be sharing my Sidewinders pattern with you serial style.  We'll start with the Prologue, followed over the next five days by 4 Acts and a Grand Finale.  I encourage you, my adventurous friends, to grab your supplies, measure your foot, and knit along.

Acknowledgments

1. Thank you to all the commenters who left creative naming suggestions for these socks.  I cannot tell you how much fun it was to read your ideas and to visit your blogs.  Special Thank-Yous need to go to Monica for suggesting "Sidewinders" and to Grumperina for suggesting "Perpensockular".  I love both and have named this pattern, "Sidewinders: A PerpenSOCKular Pattern".

2. Thank you to Priscilla Gibson-Roberts for popularizing short-rowed heels and toes for hand knit socks.  The heels and toes for the Sidewinders are proportioned based on her short-rowed couterparts, but are knit in the perpendicular direction using paired increases and decreases instead of short-rows.

3. Thank you to Charlene Schurch for the size chart in her excellent book, Sensational Knitted Socks.  I used this chart as my primary resource when determining the "To Fit" measurements for the Sidewinders.

Without further adieu, I bring you the first installment of Sidewinders: A PerpenSOCKular Pattern.

Sidewinders: A PerpenSOCKular Pattern

Gauge

30 stitches and 40 rows in 4 inches -- worked in stockinette stitch, flat (back and forth)

Materials

Yarn

Super Fine #1 -- you'll need about 320 yards for an average sized pair of socks.  A little more for larger socks and a little less for smaller ones.  Most of the popular sock yarns fall into the Super Fine #1 weight category.  For example, I've used Blue Moon Fiber Arts' Socks that Rock Light Weight, Opal's sock yarn, and Louet's Gems Fingering Weight.

Needles

A circular needle in the size required to get a gauge of 30 sts and 40 rows in 4 inches using the yarn of your choice -- typically something in the neighborhood of a US 2.  Why a circular needle?  Even though the Sidewinders are knit back and forth, you need the flexibility of the circular needle to accommodate the curve of the heel and toe.  A 2nd circular needle close in size is needed for the Grand Finale.

Sizing & Measurements

Both the length and the circumference of your Sidewinders are set by the size you select.  Since I'm shooting for a well-fitting sock, I've written the pattern for 12 sizes -- 4 different lengths each with 3 different widths.  Please select the size based on you shoe size and/or actual foot measurements in inches.  If measuring the circumference of your foot, please measure around the widest point -- typically around the ball of your foot.

Ease: Due to the difference in vertical and horizontal stretch of knit fabric, the finished foot length is intended to be about 1 inch shorter than the To Fit length and the finished circumference is about the same as the To Fit circumference.

	Shoe Size			Foot Length		Circumference
	US	EUR	Width	To Fit	Finished	To Fit	Finished
6-7N	6-7	36-37	Narrow	9 1/4"	8 1/4"	7 1/8"	7 1/4"
6-7M	6-7	36-37	Medium	9 1/4"	8 1/4"	8 1/8"	8"
6-7W	6-7	36-37	Wide	9 1/4"	8 1/4"	9"	9 1/8"
7-8N	7-8	37-38	Narrow	9 1/2"	8 1/2"	7 1/4"	7 1/4"
7-8M	7-8	37-38	Medium	9 1/2"	8 1/2"	8 1/8"	8 1/4"
7-8W	7-8	37-38	Wide	9 1/2"	8 1/2"	9"	9 1/8"
8-9N	8-9	38-39	Narrow	9 3/4"	8 3/4"	7 5/8"	7 5/8"
8-9M	8-9	38-39	Medium	9 3/4"	8 3/4"	8 1/2"	8 3/4"
8-9W	8-9	38-39	Wide	9 3/4"	8 3/4"	9 3/8"	9 1/2"
9-10N	9-10	39-40	Narrow	10 1/4"	9 1/4"	7 7/8"	8"
9-10M	9-10	39-40	Medium	10 1/4"	9 1/4"	8 3/4"	8 3/4"
9-10W	9-10	39-40	Wide	10 1/4"	9 1/4"	9 3/4"	10"

Test Knitting

To date, the 8-9M and 6-7W Sidewinders have been test knit.  I've check my numbers and calculations carefully, but please use your good sense and judgement when following the pattern.  Patterns are, after all, merely suggestions to the intelligent. 

Instructions

Since the pattern has 12 different sizes, there will be 12 different numbers for any instructions that vary by size.  The numbers will be formatted as follows:  (6-7N, 6-7M, 6-7W) [ (7-8N, 7-8M, 7-8W), (8-9N, 8-9M, 8-9W), (9-10N, 9-10M, 9-10W)]

I recommend that you print a copy of the pattern and highlight your size throughout.

Prologue

Gauge is critical for well fitting Sidewinders.  Please take the time to knit a gauge swatch to determine the needle size you need to use with your yarn to achieve the required gauge of 30 stitches and 40 rows in 4 inches. 

Call me mean, but this is were the pattern stops for today -- I really do want you to knit that gauge swatch, because I really do want your Sidewinders to turn out well.  Tomorrow, in Act I, we'll cast on and begin shaping the first half of the heel. 

Quill's Beanie

My paternal grandmother Quill -- the grandmother we used to sip coffee and puff on cigarettes with -- was a signature knitter.  She wasn't one to try all the latest patterns, but preferred to stick to her tried and true.  Grandmother could knit one heck of a beanie and could crochet a granny square blanket -- always variegated -- like nobody's business.  She made beanies for everyone and blankets for everyone's babies.  Just thinking about her beanies conjures up images of my dad with his striped beanie perched on top of his head raking leaves or playing touch football with us girls. 

4 Needles No 6?  $5.75.  1 Skein Sweater Wool (2 oz or a touch more)? $8.50.  Grandmother's handwritten beanie pattern?  Priceless. 

Care to knit Quill's Beanie for yourself?  Read on...

Quill Fisher knit many, many beanies.  Here is the transcription of her handwritten pattern.

Knitting Directions for Beanie

4 Needles No 6
1 Skein Sweater Wool (2 oz or a touch more)

Cast on 96 stitches, 32 on each 3 needles
Knit 2, Purl 2, for 35 rows (or 5 inches)

Knit for 22 rows (or 3 inches)

Then decrease every row at each end of needle until 4 stitches remain on each needle.  In decreasing, Knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over knit stitch.  Knit to within 3 stitches and knit 2 together.  Knit 1

Continue this with every needle until there are 4 stitches remaining on each needle.
Break the yarn off, thread onto a large needle, draw through all stitches, draw stitches together smoothly and sew firmly in place.

French Relief "Beanie" for World War 2

Newborn Hat Pattern

If you're like nona, your day-to-day life is over flowing.  Which is why I think a little charity knitting would do us good.  There are lots of programs looking for donated hand knits.  For example, the Auxiliary for a local hospital likes to send each new baby home with a hand knit hat -- I like to think of it as a "Welcome to the World" hat.  With 500 babies born each month, the hospital is in constant need of hats.  I've written a free pattern for my LYS to give to interested knitters and thought I'd share it with you.  Perhaps your local hospital has a similar program.

Welcome to the World Newborn Hat

This simple hat is perfect for welcoming a newborn baby into the world. If knitting a hat to donate to your local hospital, most programs ask for non-wool yarn in blue or pink.

To Fit
Newborn Baby

Finished Size
Circumference: 11.25 inches; Height: 5.5 inches

Gauge
This pattern is written for two gauges:

• 20 stitches in 4 inches if using worsted weight yarn
• 22 stitches in 4 inches if using DK yarn

Yarn & Needles
When choosing your yarn, remember that most programs ask for non-wool yarn and prefer blue and pink.

• Worsted Weight -- any yarn with a gauge of 18 – 20 stitches in 4 inches.   Approximately 55 yards required.  Use US 6 double pointed needles (or size required to get a gauge of 20 stitches in 4 inches).
   
• DK Weight --  any yarn with a gauge of 22 – 24 stitches in 4 inches.  Approximately 60 yards required.  Use US 5 double pointed needles (or size required to get a gauge of 22 stitches in 4 inches).

Abbreviations

k2tog -- knit two stitches together

Directions

Please Note:  When two numbers are given, the first number is for worsted weight yarn and the second number in []’s is for DK weight yarn.

Cast on 56 [64] stitches onto 3 needles as follows:  16 [16] stitches onto needle one, 16 [24] stitches onto needle two, and 24 [24] stitches onto needle three.

Join into the round, being careful not to twist. 

Round 1:  *k2, p2* to end of round.
Work in 2x2 ribbing by repeating Round 1 until hat measures 1.5 inches from cast on edge.

Switch to stockinette stitch (knit all rounds) and continue until hat measures 4.5 inches from cast on edge.

Crown Shaping
Decrease top of hat as follows:

Round 1: *k6, k2tog* repeat to end of round => 49 [56] stitches remaining
Round 2: *k5, k2tog* repeat to end of round => 42 [48] stitches remaining
Round 3: knit
Round 4: *k4, k2tog* repeat to end of round => 35 [40] stitches remaining
Round 5: *k3, k2tog* repeat to end of round => 28 [32] stitches remaining
Round 6: knit
Round 7: *k2, k2tog* repeat to end of round => 21 [24] stitches remaining
Round 8: *k1, k2tog* repeat to end of round => 14 [26] stitches remaining
Round 9: *k2tog* repeat to end of round => 7 [8] stitches remaining

Break off yarn.  Using blunt needle, thread yarn through stitches and pull to tighten.  Weave in all ends.

I-Cord Gloves - 4th Installment

In this 4th and final installment of the I-Cord Glove pattern we'll knit the glove's cuff, adding a touch of style with a picot edging bind off.  If you've made it this far pat yourself on the back -- from here on in it's smooth sailing.

I-Cord Gloves: Serial Pattern: Installment 4

Previous installments of the I-Cord Glove pattern include:

• Installment 1 -- Kick start your gloves and knit the 10 fingers using Meg Swansen's I-Cord finger technique.
• Installment 2 -- Join the 4 fingers together and worked the body of the glove down to the thumb.
• Installment 3 -- Connect the thumb to the glove and shape the thumb gusset.

With the fingers knit and connected to the glove, the thumb added, and the gusset shape, it's time to knit the cuff.  A glove's cuff is an excellent opportunity to be creative.  This pattern works the cuff in a simple K1, P1 ribbing.  But remember a pattern is not law, it's merely a suggestion to the intelligent -- feel free to ignore the pattern and knit the cuff your way!

Knitting the Cuff
Continuing on 44 (48, 52) sts, work a simple -- but stretchy -- K1, P1 ribbing as follows:

• All Rounds: [k1, p1] to end of round.
• Continue until cuff measures 2 1/2 inches.

Picot Edging Bind Off

I love the ruffle of this decorative bind off

This edging is the "picot point chain edging" from Nicky Epstein's Knitting on the Edge. If you're not into the ruffle simply bind off normally -- to avoid a tight bind off, try using the Suspended Bind Off (scroll down).    To work the picot edging bind off:

1. Bind off 2 stitches
2. Slip the lone stitch on the right needle back to the left needle
3. Cast on 3 stitches
4. Bind off 5 stitches
5. Repeat steps 2 - 4

Finishing
Weave in all ends and wear proudly.  If you're feeling extra good, go on and take an MCS -- you deserve it!

nona's second pair of gloves for the Peaceful Palms Knit Along.

I-Cord Gloves - 3rd Installment

In the 3rd installment of my I-Cord Glove pattern, we'll connect the thumb to the glove and shape the thumb gusset.  "Gusset" is one of my favorite words -- I like trying to use it in casual conversation -- and was pleased to see that gloves, like socks, have a gusset.

I-Cord Gloves: Serial Pattern: Installment 3

Previous installments of the I-Cord Glove pattern include:

• Installment 1 -- In which we kick started the gloves and knit the 10 fingers using Meg Swansen's I-Cord finger technique.
• Installment 2 -- In which we joined the 4 fingers together and worked the body of the glove down to the thumb.

As you work this pattern, please email me if you spot an error, have a problem, or would like to suggest a change.  Your feedback will help make this a better pattern for others -- Thanks!

As with installment 2, these directions assume you're knitting in the round using 2 circular needles -- needle #1 and needle #2 -- if you're more comfortable with double pointed needles simply adapt the directions accordingly. 

We'll join the thumb to the glove using the same join technique we used to join the fingers.  The thumb is not placed at the side of the hand, instead it is offset slightly toward the palm.  At this point in the pattern, we need to distinguish the right glove from the left glove -- and will knit the right glove first.

Right Glove

Joining the Thumb to the Right Glove
The first step is to redistribute the stitches, moving 3 of the palm stitches to the top of the hand .  For the right glove, the palm stitches are on needle #1 and the top of the hand stitches are on needle #2.

• Move the last 3 stitches at the end of needle #1 onto the beginning of needle #2.  Needle #1 should have 21 (22, 25) stitches and needle #2 should have 28 (29, 31) stitches.

Now join the thumb as follows:

• Round 1
  • Needle #1:  Slip 8 (8, 9) thumb stitches onto the end of the left needle -- these thumb stitches should be the last stitches you knit as follows:  k20 (21, 24), place a marker, k2tog, k7 (7, 8) ==> 28 (29, 33) stitches
  • Needle #2:  Slip the remaining 8 (8, 9) thumb stitches onto the beginning of the right needle -- these thumb stitches should be the first stitches you knit as follows:  k7 (7, 8), k2tog, place a marker, knit to the end ==> 35 (36, 39) stitches.
• Round 2
  • Needle #1:  Knit to the marker, slip marker, slip the next stitch onto a safety pin -- always hold the pin behind the needle and bring the yarn under the pin as you continue -- knit to end.
  • Needle #2:  Knit 7 (7, 8), slip the stitch from the safety pin onto the left needle and knit it, slip the next stitch onto a safety pin, slip marker, knit to end.
• Round 3
  • Needle #1:  Knit to the marker, slip marker, slip the stitch from the safety pin onto the left needle and knit it, knit to end.
  • Needle #2:  Knit all stitches.

Shaping the Right Glove's Thumb Gusset
There should be 16 (16, 18) stitches between the 2 markers.  These 16 (16, 18) stitches form the thumb gusset and will be decreased complete away over several decrease rounds, with each decrease round decreasing 2 stitches.  Here goes:

• Round 4
  • Needle #1:  Knit to marker, slip marker, ssk, knit to end
  • Needle #2:  Knit to 2 stitches before the marker, k2tog, slip marker, knit to end
• Round 5 & 6
  • Needle #1:  Knit all stitches
  • Needle #2:  Knit all stitches

Repeat these last 3 rounds until these are only 2 stitches between the markers.

• Next Round
  • Needle #1:  Knit to 1 stitch before marker, ssk removing marker ==> 20 (21, 24) stitches
  • Needle #2:  k2tog removing marker, knit to end ==> 27 (28, 30) stitches
• Next Round
  • Knit all stitches
• Next Round
  • Decrease 3 (1, 2) stitches evenly distributed across the round ==> 44 (48, 52) total stitches

Right glove with thumb attached and gusset shaped!

Left Glove
The left glove is worked as a mirror image of the right.

Joining the Thumb to the Left Glove
The first step is to redistribute the stitches, moving 3 of the palm stitches to the top of the hand . For the left glove, the palm stitches are on needle #2 and the top of the hand stitches are on needle #1.

• Move the first 3 stitches from the beginning of needle #2 onto the end of needle #1.  Needle #1 should have 28 (29, 31) stitches and needle #2 should have 21 (22, 25) stitches.

Now join the thumb as follows:

• Round 1
  • Needle #1:  Slip 8 (8, 9) thumb stitches onto the end of the left needle -- these thumb stitches should be the last stitches you knit as follows:  k27 (28, 30), place a marker, k2tog, k7 (7, 8) ==> 35 (36, 39) stitches
  • Needle #2:  Slip the remaining 8 (8, 9) thumb stitches onto the beginning of the right needle -- these thumb stitches should be the first stitches you knit as follows:  k7 (7, 8), k2tog, place a marker, knit to the end ==> 28 (29, 33) stitches.
• Round 2
  • Needle #1:  Knit to the marker, slip marker, slip the next stitch onto a safety pin -- always hold the pin behind the needle and bring the yarn under the pin as you continue -- knit to end.
  • Needle #2:  Knit 7 (7, 8), slip the stitch from the safety pin onto the left needle and knit it, slip the next stitch onto a safety pin, slip marker, knit to end.
• Round 3
  • Needle #1:  Knit to the marker, slip marker, slip the stitch from the safety pin onto the left needle and knit it, knit to end.
  • Needle #2:  Knit all stitches.

Shaping the Left Glove's Thumb Gusset
There should be 16 (16, 18) stitches between the 2 markers.  These 16 (16, 18) stitches form the thumb gusset and will be decreased complete away over several decrease rounds, with each decrease round decreasing 2 stitches.  Here goes:

• Round 4
  • Needle #1:  Knit to marker, slip marker, ssk, knit to end
  • Needle #2:  Knit to 2 stitches before the marker, k2tog, slip marker, knit to end
• Round 5 & 6
  • Needle #1:  Knit all stitches
  • Needle #2:  Knit all stitches

Repeat these last 3 rounds until these are only 2 stitches between the markers.

• Next Round
  • Needle #1:  Knit to 1 stitch before marker, ssk removing marker ==> 27 (28, 30) stitches
  • Needle #2:  k2tog removing marker, knit to end ==> 20 (21, 24) stitches
• Next Round
  • Knit all stitches
• Next Round
  • Decrease 3 (1, 2) stitches evenly distributed across the round ==> 44 (48, 52) total stitches

What's Next
In the next and final installment, we'll knit the glove's cuff.  But heck, don't feel like you have to wait for me -- pick a ribbing your like and perhaps add an embellishment or two.  Until next time, happy glove knitting!