nonaKnits

Sit On My Arse Day

Life as an empty-nester has been busy and fun -- leaving little computer time, yet plenty of knitting time.  The last week and a half have found me simultaneously fighting a bad cough and laryngitis while watching fur-balls and dust bunnies skate across my floor.  Clearly it's time to combine a touch of arse-sitting with a bit of house cleaning.

For the arse-sitting portion of my day I focused on football watching and mini-sock knitting.  I recently picked up a copy of Cat Bordhi's new book, "New Pathways for Sock Knitters".  In her book, Cat introduces 8 new sock architectures or "sockitectures" to use Cat's terminology.  Cat's instructions are easy to read and her techniques novel, but I'm left with a few questions.  How do these alternative sockitectures fit the foot?  And what advantages -- other than being novel -- to they have over the 2 traditional sock architectures?  Only an adult-sized sock will tell!

My first two "learning" socks; Little Sky Sock (right) & Little Coriolis (left)

Ankle Sidewinders

Summer is the perfect time to sport a pair of breezy ankle socks, which -- by the way -- are an excellent way to use the Koigu in your stash and a compelling reason to buy more.  I'm a huge fan of the Koigu almost solid colors and love how the turquoise cuff enhances the colors in the variegated colorway.

My ankle sock was knit using the basic Sidewinders pattern with the following modifications:

1. The cuff was worked in Garter Stitch over 6 stitches (instead of 8).  I also used a solid color for the cuff stitches and love the contrast it provided.
2. The leg is worked over 8 stitches.  For an even shorter ankle sock the leg could be reduced to 4 stitches.
3. I experimented with the paired increases and decreases -- the decreases are separated by 2 stitches (instead of 0) and the increases are separated by 4 stitches (instead of 2).  Although this made the increases and decreases easier to work, I'm not completely happy with the wider look of the shaping.  In the 2nd ankle sock I'm going to try 1 stitch between the decreases and 3 between the increases to see if I can find a common ground between form and function.

Speaking of modifications, Maia came up with a really cool one!

Sidewinder Sightings

What fun I've had spotting Sidewinders here and there.  I thought I'd share a few sightings for your enjoyment:

• Both socks finished and still smiling: Kathy, Maia, and Sulafaye

• One sock done and contemplating another: Eleven Stitches, Grumperina, Irina's ankle sock, Kim's test sock, Kim's ankle version, Malin, Rachel, Sonya, Stacey

• In the works: Laura, and perhaps You!

If you've finished a Sidewinder -- notice I said "a" -- and would like to share your photo, Sonya has started a Sidewinder Flickr Group.  Thanks Sonya!

Sidewinders: The Grand Finale

Today I bring you The Grand Finale -- the 6th and final installment -- of Sidewinders: A PerpenSOCKular Pattern.  If you need to get caught up, you can find the previous installments here: The Prologue, Act I, Act II, Act III and Act IV.

The Grand Finale requires you to close you eyes, take a cleansing breath, and conjure up all the bad feelings and emotions you have about grafting.  Imagine how hard grafting is and how confusing the front needle, back needle, knit-wise, purl-wise instructions are.  Got it?  Good.  Now open the door and sweep all those nasty images away.  Because today you're going to graft, and today you're going to realize it's not so hard, and today you're going to say to yourself, "I like grafting".   

Although grafting is not the least bit hard, it does take time, and it does take good light.  You'll probably need about an hour for the Grand Finale, so put the tea pot on, get the good chocolate out, and shoo the kids away.

It's now or never -- cleansing breath, positive thoughts, tea, and click... 

Sidewinders: The Grand Finale

The Long Vertical Graft

The stitches on the needle need to be grafted to the stitches left by the provisional cast on.  This long vertical graft will join your flat, crazy looking sock into a tube.

Prepare to Graft

• Remove the provisional cast on and place the resulting live loops on another circular needle of comparable size.  Even if this other needle is a little larger or a little smaller than the needle you knit with your grafting will turn out fine.

• Cut your working yarn leaving a 75 inch tail -- give or take -- and thread the tail on a blunt tapestry needle.

• Fold your sock in half, wrong sides together, and bring the needles parallel to one another.  Hold the needles in your left hand -- you'll be working right to left -- with the tail connected to the first stitch on the front needle.

Poised to begin grafting!

Just Once, To Get Started

	Front needle -- Go through the first stitch on the front needle -- from the center, out -- and leave the stitch on the needle.
	Back needle -- Go through the first stitch on the back needle -- from the center, out -- and leave the stitch on the needle.

Repeat Over, and Over, and Over, and Over

	Front Needle -- Go in toward the center & drop the stitch off the needle.
	Front Needle -- Come out from the center & leave the stitch on the needle.
	Back Needle -- Go in toward the center & drop the stitch off the needle.
	Back Needle -- Come out from the center & leave the stitch on the needle.

Keep repeating these 4 steps over and over and over until you have only 1 stitch left on each needle:

1. Front needle -- in toward the center -- drop stitch off
2. Front needle -- out from the center -- leave stitch on
3. Back needle -- in toward the center -- drop stitch off
4. Back needle -- out from the center -- leave stitch on

Always keep the yarn under the knitting needles and try to keep an even tension -- pulling tight enough to close but not so tight that it puckers.  Don't worry, you'll find your rhythm.  In a nutshell, you're alternating needles and repeating, "In, Drop Off, Out, Leave On"

Just Once, To End

Once you're down to a single stitch on each needle, you simply need to "go in toward the middle & drop off the stitch" on each of the needles.  Weave your ends in and you are done!

The Short Horizontal Graft

Hopefully by now you and grafting are fast friends.  You have one more short horizontal graft to join the toe to the bottom of the foot.  If you were careful to work the slip stitch edge and place your pins as instructed, this horizontal graft should be a breeze!

Prepare to Graft

• Turn the sock inside out and locate the edge stitches that run along the sides of the foot and toe.  These edge stitches look like interlocking "V"s.  You should have (18, 20, 23), [(18, 21, 23), (19, 22, 24), (20, 22, 25)] edge stitches on the foot between -- but not including -- the pins and the same number on the toe between -- and including -- the pins.

• Start with the foot's edge stitches -- the stitches between, but not including, the pins. 

  • With one of your circular needles and the wrong side facing out, pick up the outer leg of the "V" -- the leg closest to you and farthest away from the opening -- of each edge stitch and place it on your needle.

  • When you pick up this leg and place it on your needle, the right half of the leg should be in the front of the needle and the left half of the leg should be in the back -- it should remind you of a typical stitch mount.

  

  • I found it easier to grab the leg first with my tapestry needle and then to transfer it onto the knitting needle.

• Next, the toe's edge stitches -- the stitches between, and including, the pins. 

  • With your other circular needle and the wrong side facing out, pick up the outer leg of each edge stitch and place it on your needle.  Just like you did with the foot's edge stitches.

  • Remove the pins.

• When finished you should have (18, 20, 23), [(18, 21, 23), (19, 22, 24), (20, 22, 25)] stitches on each of 2 circular needles.

Graft

Cut a piece of yarn about 30 inches long and thread it in your tapestry needle.  With wrongs sides facing out, graft these stitches together.  Weave in ends.

The End

And they all lived happily ever after -- Curtain Down -- The End.

Sidewinders: Act IV

Today I bring you Act IV -- the 5th installment -- of Sidewinders: A PerpenSOCKular Pattern.  If you need to get caught up, you can find the previous installments here: The Prologue, Act I, Act II, and Act III.

Let's recap the Sidewinders' grand plan and see if it makes more sense now that you're almost finished.  The sock is knit sideways starting at the center back of the leg a.k.a. center bottom of the foot and is knit back and forth in rows.   The flat sock is then joined into a tube using a little magic, which will be revealed in the Grand Finale.

The toe and heel are shaped identically using paired increases to widen and paired decreases to narrow.  The sock divides nicely into 4 equal sections -- each concentrating on one particular type of shaping.   The 1st and 4th sections shape the heel while the 2nd and 3rd shape the toe.

Several techniques are used to make the sock's leg fit nicely.   First, the Double Garter cuff behaves a bit like ribbing, holding up the top of the sock.  Second, the back 1/4th of the leg is worked in Garter Stitch to fit snuggly across the back ankle.  And finally, short rows are used to widen the top of the leg to accommodate the widening of the calf.

I'm guessing many of you will not be surprised by Act IV.  On the contrary, you should feel like you've done it before.

06/09/2007 -- Post updated to correct error in instructions.

Sidewinders Act IV: Heel Out

Instructions

Finishing the Heel

Next Row -- Row (54, 60, 69), [(54, 63, 69), (57, 66, 72), (60, 66, 75)] -- Begin the second half of the heel shaping by working paired increases every row as follows:

RS Rows:  Work to 1 stitch before the center heel marker, m1R, k2, m1L, work to the end.

WS Rows: Work to 1 stitch before the center heel marker, m1L, p2, m1R, and work to the end.

nonaSays  If you forget how to work any of these increases, please refer back to Act II for details.

Repeat the increase row (10, 11, 13), [(10, 12, 13), (11, 13, 14), (11, 13, 14)] more times.  And at the same time...

After finishing Row (61, 67, 77), [(61, 71, 77),  (65, 75, 81), (69, 75, 85)] -- Insert a few short rows to add a little calf shaping.  These short rows should not be included in your row count.  It is also time to switch the leg stitch pattern from Stockinette Stitch back to Garter Stitch.  Here we go:

Short Row 1 -- RS -- Work 12 stitches, Turn mid-row
Short Row 2 -- WS -- YO, work 12 stitches to get back to the end of the needle.
Short Row 3 -- RS -- Work 12 stitches, k2tog, k3, Turn mid-row
Short Row 4 -- WS --- YO, work 16 stitches to get back to the end of the needle.
Short Row 5 -- RS -- Work 16 stitches, k2tog, k3, Turn mid-row
Short Row 6 -- WS -- YO, work 20 stitches to get back to the end of the needle.

nonaSays  Double check yourself -- all sizes should be starting their short-rows on a RS row.  Also, the 1st stitch of each k2tog should be the YO from the previous short row.

Next Row -- Row (62, 68, 78), [(62, 72, 78),  (66, 76, 82), (70, 76, 86)] -- Continue to work the leg stitches in Garter Stitch.   Also, when you encounter the YO from the last short row, knit it together with the next stitch.  And although I'm sure you don't need to be reminded, the mother in me must say, "don't forget to continue to work the heel increases".

Last Increase Row -- Row (64, 71, 82), [(64, 75, 82), (68, 79, 86), (71, 79, 89)]   -- This should be your last row of heel increases.  When finished with this row you should have:

8 stitches from the beginning of the row to the cuff marker,
(53, 54, 56), [(55, 57, 58), (56, 58, 59), (59, 61, 62)] stitches between the cuff marker and the center heel marker,
(51, 51, 48), [(53, 52, 50), (55, 52, 52), (58, 56, 55)] stitches between the center heel marker and the end of the row.

For a total of (112, 113, 112), [(116, 117, 116), (119, 118, 119), (125, 125, 125)] stitches.

Work without further heel shaping for (7, 8, 9), [(7, 8, 9), (7, 8, 9), (8, 8, 10)] rows ending with Row (71, 79, 91), [(71, 83, 91), (75, 87, 95), (79, 87, 99)].

Intermission

Are you feeling sassy?  Good, keep that sassy feeling going for tomorrow's Grand Finale.  And you know what -- seriously -- I'm proud of you!

Sidewinders: Act III

Today I bring you Act III -- the 4th installment -- of Sidewinders: A PerpenSOCKular Pattern.  If you need to get caught up, you can find the previous installments here: The Prologue, Act I, and Act II.

My friends, you're halfway through!  You've flown through paired decreases, conquered paired increases, mastered short rows, and negotiated stitch markers -- please, take a well deserved MCS.  In the next 2 Acts, we'll be doing more of the same. 

In this Act you'll shape the second half of the toe using paired decrease like you did with the heel.  Did you get that?  Just like the heel!  As I said before and will say again -- ad nauseum, I know -- what I love about the Sidewinders is that the heel and toe are shaped in the exact same way.  Symmetry is a beautiful thing.

Things start off easy today.  Shall we get going?

Sidewinders Act III: Toe In

Instructions

Finishing the Toe

Work straight for (7, 8, 9), [(7, 8, 9), (7, 8, 9), (8, 8, 10)]  rows.

nonaSays  Here's my trick for keeping track of which row I'm on.  I count the ridges and valleys of the Double Garter cuff.  Each ridge -- or valley -- is 2 rows.  Once counted, I add 1 for the first setup row and subtract 6 for the 6 short rows worked in Act I.  What technique are you using?

Next Row -- Row (43, 48, 55), [(43, 50, 55), (45, 52, 57), (48, 52, 60)] -- Complete the toe shaping by working paired decreases every row as follows:

RS Rows:  Work to 2 stitches before the center toe marker, k2tog, skp, work to end of row

WS Rows:  Work to 2 stitches before center toe marker, ssp, p2tog, work to end of row

nonaSays  If you forget how to work any of these decreases, please refer back to Act I for details.

Repeat the decrease row (10, 11, 13), [(10, 12, 13), (11, 13, 14), (11, 13, 14)] more times.  You'll know you're done when you're back to 2 stitches between the center toe marker and the end of the toe.

Last Decrease Row -- Row (53, 59, 68), [(53, 62, 68), (56, 65, 71), (59, 65, 74)] -- When working this last decrease row reposition your stitch markers as follows:

Keep the cuff marker and center heel marker.
Remove the center toe marker.

When finished with this row, you should be back to:

8 cuff stitches,
(41, 41, 41), [(43, 43, 43), (43, 43, 43), (46, 46, 46)]  leg stitches,
2 heel stitches -- 1 on either side of the center heel marker -- and
(39, 38, 33), [(41, 38, 35), (42, 37, 36), (45, 41, 39)] foot stitches

For a total of (90, 89, 84), [(94, 91, 88), (95, 90, 89), (101, 97, 95)]  stitches.

Go back and mark the last toe edge stitch by slipping a safety pin around the edge stitch on the needle.   Again, you'll be glad you did when we get to the Grand Finale.

Intermission

Can you see the toe forminig, kind of like a little pocket?  Are you tempted to slip your toes inside?  Go ahead, no one’s looking.

Tomorrow in Act IV, you'll finish shaping the heel using paired increases.  You're getting so close!

Sidewinders: Act II

Are you ready for Act II -- the 3rd installment -- of Sidewinders: A PerpenSOCKular Pattern?  If you need to get caught up, you can find the previous installments here: The Prologue and Act I.

In Act I you finished the first 1/4 of your sock, turning the heel using paired decreases. In this act, you’ll concentrate on the toe shaping, working paired increases every row to increase the toe to its final length.  Half of the increased stitches create the top of the toe and the other half create the bottom – think of the center two toe stitches as the fold line. 

Finding paired increases that didn't distort the fabric when worked every row was tricky business.  I finally settled on the raised bar increase, but please fell free to substitute another if you prefer – I trust you.

That's enough chit-chat, let's get started on the toe...

Sidewinders Act II: Toe Out

Abbreviations

Raised Bar Increases

m1R -- Make-one right slanting.   Here’s how:

• Find the horiztonal connecting yarn between the needles.
•   Using the left needle pick up the connecting yarn from back-to-front and leave this "raised bar" on the left needle.
• If this is a right side row -- Knit the raised bar. 
• If this is a wrong side row -- Purl the raised bar.

nonaSays  If you go to knit or purl the raised bar and you feel like you are putting your needle through a big open hole then you probably picked up the connecting yarn from the wrong direction.

m1L -- Make-one left slanting.   Here’s how:

• Find the horiztonal connecting yarn between the needles.
•   Using the left needle pick up the connecting yarn from front-to-back and leave this "raised bar" on the left needle.
• If this is a right side row -- Knit the raised bar through the back loop. 
• If this is a wrong side row -- Purl the raised bar through the back loop.

nonaSays  Same drill -- if you go to knit or purl the raised bar through the back loop and you feel like you are putting your needle through a big open hole then you probably picked up the connecting yarn from the wrong direction.

Instructions

I’m going to stop saying, "Continuing in established stitch patterns", because I have faith that you will continue to do so.

Shaping the Toe

Next Row -- Row (18,20,23), [(18,21,23), (19,22,24), (20,22,25)] -- Begin the toe shaping by working paired increases every row as follows:

RS Rows:  Work to 1 stitch before the center toe marker, m1R, k2, m1L, work to the end.

WS Rows: Work to 1 stitch before the center toe marker, m1L, p2, m1R, work to the end.

nonaSays  For those of you starting on a wrong side row, you will be working your first m1L immediately after the foot’s edge stitch.

After completing your first WS row, go back and mark the first toe edge stitch by sliding a safety pin around edge stitch still on the needle.   You’ll be glad you did when we get to the Grand Finale. 

Repeat the increase row (10, 11,13), [(10, 12, 13), (11, 13, 14), (11, 13, 14)] more times.  You'll know you're done when you have (13, 14, 16), [(13, 15, 16), (14, 16, 17), (14, 16, 17)] stitches between the center toe marker and the end of the toe.

nonaSays  To help prevent the fabric from distorting be sure to knit (or purl) the 2 center toe stitches – the stitches between the make-ones -- relatively loosely.    You want enough slack in the connecting yarn for raising the bar on the next row.

Row (28, 31, 36), [(28, 33, 36), (30, 35, 38), (31, 35, 39)]  -- This should be your last row of toe increases.    When finished with this row, you should have:

8 cuff stitches,
(42, 42, 42), [(44, 44, 44), (44, 44, 44), (47, 47, 47)]  stitches between the cuff marker and the center heel marker,
(49, 49, 46), [(51, 50, 48), (53, 50, 50), (56, 54, 53)]  stitches between the center heel marker and the center toe marker,
(13, 14, 16), [(13, 15, 16), (14, 16, 17), (14, 16, 17)] stitches from the center toe marker to the end of the row.

For a total of (112, 113, 112), [(116, 117, 116), (119, 118, 119), (125, 125, 125)] stitches.

Work straight without further toe shaping for (7, 8, 9), [(7, 8, 9), (7, 8, 9), (8, 8, 10)]  rows ending with Row (35, 39, 45), [(35, 41, 45), (37, 43, 47), (39, 43, 49)].

Intermission

Congratulations!  You're half way done with your sock having worked 1/2 of the heel shaping in Act I and 1/2 of the toe shaping in Act II.

Tomorrow in Act III, we'll work the 2nd half of the toe using paired decreases.  Paired decreases?  That should sound familiar -- think Act I, heel.

Sidewinders: Act I

Sidewinders are knit sideways -- back and forth -- from the top of the cuff to the end of the foot.    Once completed, the flat sock is joined into a tube using a little Grand Finale magic.

In Act I you'll cast on and concentrate on the first half of the heel.  Paired decreases are used every row to shape the heel from the bottom of the sole to the ankle bone.  These decreases remind me of a mitered square and have the same effect -- bending a straight line of stitches 90 degrees, perfect for turning a heel.  The cuff is worked in Double Garter stitch -- which simulates ribbing – while the leg is initially worked in Garter Stitch to give the back ankle a snug fit. 

Previous installments of this serial pattern include: The Prologue.

Did you get gauge?  Great!  Let's get started.

Sidewinders Act I: Heel In

Stitch Patterns

Double Garter

Row 1 (RS): Purl
Row 2 (WS): Knit
Row 3 (RS): Knit
Row 4 (WS): Purl

Slip Stitch Edge

Row 1 (RS): Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with yarn in front
Row 2 (WS): Knit 1 stitch through the back loop

Abbreviations

RS -- Right Side Row.  In this pattern, all even rows are right side rows.
WS -- Wrong Side Row.  In this pattern, all odd rows are wrong side rows.
YO -- Yarn Over.

Right Slanting Decreases

k2tog -- Knit two stitches together
p2tog -- Purl two stitches together

Left Slanting Decreases

skp -- Slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 1 stitch, pass the slipped stitch up and over the knit stitch and off the needle.
ssp -- Slip 1 stitch knit-wise, slip another stitch knit-wise, return the 2 slipped stitches to left needle, and purl them together through the back loop.

Instructions

Getting Started

Using the provisional cast on of your choice, cast on

(112, 113, 112), [(116, 117, 116),  (119, 118, 119), (125, 125, 125)] stitches.

nonaSays  Don't know any provisional cast ons?  Cast on with waste yarn.  Switch to your real yarn with Row 1.  The waste yarn will be removed later to reveal live stitches.  For other variations, try google.

Row 1 (WS):  Place stitch markers to divide the sections of the sock as follows:

Purl (39, 38, 33), [(41, 38, 35), (42, 37, 36), (45, 41, 39)]  foot stitches,
Place foot marker,
Purl (12, 13, 15), [(12, 14, 15), (13, 15, 16), (13, 15, 16)] heel stitches,
Place center heel marker,
Purl (12, 13, 15), [(12, 14, 15), (13, 15, 16), (13, 15, 16)]  heel stitches,
Place leg marker,
Knit (41, 41, 41), [(43, 43, 43), (43, 43, 43), (46, 46, 46)]  leg stitches,
Place cuff marker,
Purl  8 cuff stitches.

Row 2 (RS):  Establish the stitch patterns used for each sock section as follows:

Work the 8 cuff stitches in Double Garter, starting with Row 1 of the stitch pattern.
Work the leg stitches in Garter Stitch
Work the heel stitches in Stockinette Stitch
Work up to the last foot stitches in Stockinette Stitch
Work the edge stitch in the Slip Stitch Edge stitch pattern, starting with Row 1

nonaSays  Don't forget to keep working the foot's Slip Stitch Edge.  It seems trivial now, but is very significant in the Grand Finale.

Continue in the establish stitch patterns for (4, 5, 6), [(4, 5, 6), (4, 5, 6), (5, 5, 7)] more rows.

nonaSays  Are you concerned that your sock is lacking a toe?  Don’t worry, the toe will magically appear in Act II.

Shaping the Heel

Next Row -- Row (7, 8, 9), [(7, 8, 9), (7, 8, 9), (8, 8, 10)] --   Continuing in the established stitch patterns, begin the heel shaping by working paired decreases every row as follows:

RS Rows:  Work to 2 stitches before the center heel marker, k2tog, skp, work to end of row
WS Rows:  Work to 2 stitches before center heel marker, ssp, p2tog, work to end of row

nonaSays  Some sizes start the heel shaping on a RS (even) row, while others start it on a WS (odd) row.  No Worries!

Repeat the decrease row (10, 11, 13), [(10, 12, 13), (11, 13, 14), (11, 13, 14)] more times -- you'll eventually get down to 2 heel stitches --  and at the same time...

Shaping the Calf

After finishing Row (9, 11, 13), [(9, 11, 13),  (9, 11, 13), (9, 11, 13)] -- Insert a few short rows to add a little calf shaping.  These short rows should not be included in your row count.  Continuing in the established stitch patterns shape the calf using short-rows as follows:

RS - Work 20 stitches, Turn mid-row.
WS - YO, work 20 stitches to get back to the end of the needle.
RS - Work 16 stitches, Turn mid-row.
WS - YO, work 16 stitches to get back to the end of the needle.
RS - Work 12 stitches, Turn mid-row.
WS - YO, work 12 stitches to get back to the end of the needle.

nonaSays  When working short-rows, you "turn mid-row" after working only part of that row -- trying your best to ignore the un-worked stitches.  The YO is used later to close the gap formed by your mid-row turning escapade.  On WS rows, you always work back to the end of the needle.

Next Row -- Row (10, 12, 14), [(10, 12, 14),  (10, 12, 14), (10, 12, 14)] -- Switch the leg stitch pattern from Garter Stitch to Stockinette Stitch.  Also, when you encounter the 3 YOs, knit each together with the next stitch to close the gap formed by turning the short row.  Continue the heel decreases and don't forget to work the foot’s Slip Stitch Edge.

Finishing Up

Last Row -- Row (17, 19, 22), [(17, 20, 22), (18, 21, 23), (19, 21, 24)]   -- should be your last row of heel decreases.  When working this row reposition your stitch markers as follows:

Keep the center heel and cuff markers,
Remove leg and foot markers, and
Add a center toe marker 2 stitches in from end of the foot (the foot's slip stitch edge stitch counts as one of these 2 stitches).

When finished with this row, you should have:

8 cuff stitches,
(41, 41, 41), [(43, 43, 43), (43, 43, 43), (46, 46, 46)]  leg stitches,
2 heel stitches, and
(39, 38, 33), [(41, 38, 35), (42, 37, 36), (45, 41, 39)] foot stitches

For a total of (90, 89, 84), [(94, 91, 88), (95, 90, 89), (101, 97, 95)]  stitches.

Intermission

Please take a moment to admire your heel shaping.  The paired decreases created a right angled miter that connects the leg with the foot at a 90 degree angle.  Too much math talk, I know, but it’s neat!

 

Tomorrow in Act II, the action will shift from the heel to the toe.

Sidewinders: The Prologue

On Mother's Day -- while the nona-boys made me laugh and cooked me dinner -- I knit my first sideways sock.  I was simultaneously thrilled and distraught by the resulting sock.  What a fabulous idea, but a lousy fit.  This juxtaposition of emotions sent me whirling on a quest, a quest for a well-fit sideways sock.  After much noodling, experimenting, and swatching I fixed upon a design that works for me.  Perhaps you'll enjoy it as well.

If nonaKnits Sidewinders, than you can too!

Starting today I'll be sharing my Sidewinders pattern with you serial style.  We'll start with the Prologue, followed over the next five days by 4 Acts and a Grand Finale.  I encourage you, my adventurous friends, to grab your supplies, measure your foot, and knit along.

Acknowledgments

1. Thank you to all the commenters who left creative naming suggestions for these socks.  I cannot tell you how much fun it was to read your ideas and to visit your blogs.  Special Thank-Yous need to go to Monica for suggesting "Sidewinders" and to Grumperina for suggesting "Perpensockular".  I love both and have named this pattern, "Sidewinders: A PerpenSOCKular Pattern".

2. Thank you to Priscilla Gibson-Roberts for popularizing short-rowed heels and toes for hand knit socks.  The heels and toes for the Sidewinders are proportioned based on her short-rowed couterparts, but are knit in the perpendicular direction using paired increases and decreases instead of short-rows.

3. Thank you to Charlene Schurch for the size chart in her excellent book, Sensational Knitted Socks.  I used this chart as my primary resource when determining the "To Fit" measurements for the Sidewinders.

Without further adieu, I bring you the first installment of Sidewinders: A PerpenSOCKular Pattern.

Sidewinders: A PerpenSOCKular Pattern

Gauge

30 stitches and 40 rows in 4 inches -- worked in stockinette stitch, flat (back and forth)

Materials

Yarn

Super Fine #1 -- you'll need about 320 yards for an average sized pair of socks.  A little more for larger socks and a little less for smaller ones.  Most of the popular sock yarns fall into the Super Fine #1 weight category.  For example, I've used Blue Moon Fiber Arts' Socks that Rock Light Weight, Opal's sock yarn, and Louet's Gems Fingering Weight.

Needles

A circular needle in the size required to get a gauge of 30 sts and 40 rows in 4 inches using the yarn of your choice -- typically something in the neighborhood of a US 2.  Why a circular needle?  Even though the Sidewinders are knit back and forth, you need the flexibility of the circular needle to accommodate the curve of the heel and toe.  A 2nd circular needle close in size is needed for the Grand Finale.

Sizing & Measurements

Both the length and the circumference of your Sidewinders are set by the size you select.  Since I'm shooting for a well-fitting sock, I've written the pattern for 12 sizes -- 4 different lengths each with 3 different widths.  Please select the size based on you shoe size and/or actual foot measurements in inches.  If measuring the circumference of your foot, please measure around the widest point -- typically around the ball of your foot.

Ease: Due to the difference in vertical and horizontal stretch of knit fabric, the finished foot length is intended to be about 1 inch shorter than the To Fit length and the finished circumference is about the same as the To Fit circumference.

	Shoe Size			Foot Length		Circumference
	US	EUR	Width	To Fit	Finished	To Fit	Finished
6-7N	6-7	36-37	Narrow	9 1/4"	8 1/4"	7 1/8"	7 1/4"
6-7M	6-7	36-37	Medium	9 1/4"	8 1/4"	8 1/8"	8"
6-7W	6-7	36-37	Wide	9 1/4"	8 1/4"	9"	9 1/8"
7-8N	7-8	37-38	Narrow	9 1/2"	8 1/2"	7 1/4"	7 1/4"
7-8M	7-8	37-38	Medium	9 1/2"	8 1/2"	8 1/8"	8 1/4"
7-8W	7-8	37-38	Wide	9 1/2"	8 1/2"	9"	9 1/8"
8-9N	8-9	38-39	Narrow	9 3/4"	8 3/4"	7 5/8"	7 5/8"
8-9M	8-9	38-39	Medium	9 3/4"	8 3/4"	8 1/2"	8 3/4"
8-9W	8-9	38-39	Wide	9 3/4"	8 3/4"	9 3/8"	9 1/2"
9-10N	9-10	39-40	Narrow	10 1/4"	9 1/4"	7 7/8"	8"
9-10M	9-10	39-40	Medium	10 1/4"	9 1/4"	8 3/4"	8 3/4"
9-10W	9-10	39-40	Wide	10 1/4"	9 1/4"	9 3/4"	10"

Test Knitting

To date, the 8-9M and 6-7W Sidewinders have been test knit.  I've check my numbers and calculations carefully, but please use your good sense and judgement when following the pattern.  Patterns are, after all, merely suggestions to the intelligent. 

Instructions

Since the pattern has 12 different sizes, there will be 12 different numbers for any instructions that vary by size.  The numbers will be formatted as follows:  (6-7N, 6-7M, 6-7W) [ (7-8N, 7-8M, 7-8W), (8-9N, 8-9M, 8-9W), (9-10N, 9-10M, 9-10W)]

I recommend that you print a copy of the pattern and highlight your size throughout.

Prologue

Gauge is critical for well fitting Sidewinders.  Please take the time to knit a gauge swatch to determine the needle size you need to use with your yarn to achieve the required gauge of 30 stitches and 40 rows in 4 inches. 

Call me mean, but this is were the pattern stops for today -- I really do want you to knit that gauge swatch, because I really do want your Sidewinders to turn out well.  Tomorrow, in Act I, we'll cast on and begin shaping the first half of the heel. 

The Final Task

The pattern is written and needs a few edits -- no problem.  My experimenting is done and all techniques are finalized -- great.  The test knitting is coming along smoothly -- on schedule.  Which leaves me to the last and most difficult task in the design process.  What should I name my version of the Sideways Socks, because let's be honest "Sideways Socks" is far, far to boring and predictable.  I'm looking for something snappy, something clever, something original.  And I'm looking to you, creative reader -- yes, you -- for suggestions.  Can you help?

Sideways Socks Test Knitting